On Friday May 13, 2022 we took off from Albany at 6:30am to Newark and then Newark to Hethrow. Poppy wasn’t pleasantly surprised that our business class cabin had full lay down seats. As I picked up Poppy at 4:30am we were both able to take a good nap. The flight was pretty smooth and served us two meals. Real steak and eggs for breakfast and Ravioli for Lunch. Poppy asked the flight attendant if we could keep the toiletry bag that came with our seat and she said absolutely. I watched a couple good shows and enjoyed a nap. I was a bit nervous about our flight exchange as we landed at 7:30 they had to tow us to our gate in Newark. Our flight to Hethrow was only 2 gates way but boarding started at 7:50am. Lucky for us it was only two gates away. God was certainly smiling on us that day.
As expected we had two twin beds. We were probably the lucky ones in the group as we took a day flight Friday and arrived a night early. This allowed us to sightsee in London and acclimate to the 5hr ahead time difference.
After our breakfast (buffet with orange eggs and funny tasting Cumberland sausage). Poppy and I took an open top Bus tour from Jubilee Park & Garden. Took us an hour from the hotel to get to the park but we made it in time for the 2pm bus. I had thought this was a tour guides bus but more of a prerecorded tour with headphones which turned out to be fine. The weather was beautiful with the sun shining in our face. We weren’t able to get to open air seats until after a few stops but that turned out ok. It was amazing to see the old world architecture everywhere and the typical must sees Big Ben, London Bridge etc. One of the noteworthy areas that looked interesting to stay was Piccadilly Circus. I had thought the bus tour was two hours but it turned out to be three. Bruce and I were starving. We ventured into an Italian Restaurant called Azzurro just outside Waterloo station. We took an Uber back to the hotel about 6:20pm and we’re pretty tired out. Bruce was a little sore as he apparently took a tumble with his luggage the night before we left. We went to bed early so we could be fresh to meet the group the next morning.
After breakfast we met up with the bus and met our bus driver Klaas Zwart and our historian Chris Anderson. We had to pick up the folks who attended Toccoa extension from Hethrow. We had to circle Hethrow three times for Klaas to get to the right spot as it was very confusing where the terminal 3 pickup location was for coaches. Once we boarded them we had introductions to Chris and George Luz Jr (son of Band of Brothers member.). We headed over to Littlecote House where troops were based ahead of the D-Day invasion. Unrelated to war, there was a Roman mosaic discovered on the property. As Regiment headquarters for first battalion, 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment. Chris had pointed out what he believed to be the offices of Col. Robert F. Sink, Regiment Commander.
Wiltshire village of Aldbourne was a remarkable village which seems comprised of structures century’s old. There were two pubs called the Crown for enlisted men and the Blue Boar for officers. Bruce and I had fish and chips at the Blue Boar. We were able to see the church and cemetery where Dick Winters would go to reflect. We also saw the building where Dick took up residence with a local family. We learned from Chris that he would study intensely to prepare for the days ahead. We ended our Aldbourne stop at a local field where excavation reveals an area of encampment of Nissen Huts. We also were able to visit a local resident who is the last kno Nissen hut converted into a workshop.
We visited an RAF airfield from where part of the D-Day invasion took off. Eisenhower visited with the soldiers here. It was very interesting to learn how many planes took off from this air field at they had to circle until all planes were in the air for a coordinated attack. The airfield serves as a commons area now (park).
Checked into the Donnington Hotel. This was a hot one for Bruce and I (no a/c). He seems to be feeling a little better. We have Lamb Leg for dinner, people seem not to like it but I finished mine. Bruce and I had two terrible old fashioned at the bar but apparently the server wasn’t supposed to make them I’m thinking because it was Sunday. Bruce attempts to get a coffee after dinner but still nothing that resembles American coffee. Excited to see the war room tomorrow.
Southwick House is on a military base but we were able to gain access to see the war room where D-Day was planned and the Supreme Commander General Eisenhower gave the order on June 5th 1944 to execute operation overlord on June 6th. We learned that the next predicted open weather was predicted in mid-June and had Eisenhower waited it could have been catastrophic because one of the worst storms hit the Normandy coast line. Bruce’s picture was in the window thought to be where Eisenhower gave the go ahead.
After Southwick house we ventured to Portsmouth Harbor to catch the ferry. Bruce waited on the bus while I explored the shopping area and fought some good Vietnamese food.
On the ferry from Portsmouth to Normandy which took 6hrs. There were several decks with restaurants/bar. Bruce and I enjoy a beer while we take off then we venture to the self service restaurant and enjoy some stories from Chris. As we approach the coastline we venture out to see Utah beach. It’s amazing how vast the coast line is. We arrive at the port of Caen and head straight to the hotel Novotel Bayeaux. We lose another hour and are now six hours ahead of NY. We have some kind of beef dinner and then head to bed. A long day ahead tomorrow and only about 6 hours of sleep.
Originally called the Bénouville Bridge, this was the first attack on D-Day as allied forces landed in gliders 90 minutes after leaving England and secured with bridge six hours before soldiers landed on Normandy beaches. We were very tired and had a long day ahead the next morning.
This hotel had nice beds and poppy was pretty wiped after dinner. This was our longest day yet.
Saint Mere Eglise was another charming village with a lot of great architecture. This was the first liberated village on D-Day. In the church picture you will notice a paratrooper representing John Steele who got hung up on the church. We have amazing weather and heard horror stories of rain from others on prior trips. Chris pointed out an alley way where Dick Winters believed he landed as easy company was far away from the intended target. We got to do a quick shopping trip and headed back to the bus.
A stick of easy company aboard “66” C-47 attempted to land after being hit and crashed killing Easy Company’s leader Lt Thomas Meehan.
Brecourt Manor is where Dick Winters and easy company was given an order: “There's fire along that hedgerow there. Take care of it”. In the series this is where Easy company takes out the three german field artillery guns. This is a private farm held in the family for centuries and we ran into some college kids conducting archeological digs and they were a little ornery so we had to go around the tree line into the cow pasture. Chris told us a story about how a GI has shot the owners father and commander had threatened to lockup the soldier if he dies and luckily the Frenchman survived. The owners father never really wanted that story told. The archeologist seem to tick of Chris but all turned out fine and we got to meet the farm owner.
We visit Utah beach and museum. It has been a long day and both Poppy and I are tired. We watched a short film and tour the museum get some drinks and head back to the bus.
This was the intended drop zone for east company. Chris told an interesting story about an American soldier shooting a German soldier in the confession booth. This was another beautiful village captured in time.
Amid the fighting, a pair of U.S. Army medics from the 501st regiment, Bob Wright and Ken Moore, set up an aid station in the hamlet’s 700-year-old church. They treated both American and German soldiers. The hole in the ceiling was from mortar fire that landed on the floor but luckily didn’t explode. You can still see blood stains on the pews. They also showed us a spot in the cemetery where one of the American medics had his ashes buried.
Easy company entered a fierce battle and from the miniseries then encounter a German machine gunner in 2nd story window to the far left. George’s dad along with another soldier were able to get close enough to lob a grenade in the window, however, not before Dick winters had to pull men out of the trenches because they froze in the face of enemy fire. Chris also indicated the planners didn’t account for the immense hedges throughout Normandy.
Pointe Du Hocis where the American Second Ranger Battalion under the command of Lt. Col. James E. Rudder scaled the cliffs to secure the elevated position and take out the guns. When they arrived the guns had been pulled and they eventually found them and took them out in a field behind. This was an impressive site and provided a real view of what I’ve only seen in movies. The gun in the picture was the type they took out.
Omaha Beach was an experience. The picture with the position in the hill was a strategic advantage for the Germans. As you can imagine the elevated position with a machine gun allowed the Germans a strategic advantage. Eventually allied forces were able to scale further down the beach and penetrate the wall. We couldn’t believe we walked the beach and within 30 minutes the tide fully came in. This must have been unnerving for soldiers to encounter.
While some of the burial areas where blocked off we were able to visit and lay flowers on a couple of easy company graves and others. They had a band play the star spangled banner and Taps which was spine tingling. The design, precision, and maintenance is amazing to see. Each cross or star has the soldiers service number on the back. Only service members who died in the battle or from injuries directly tied to the battle are allowed to be buried here. Families had the option to bring their sons home so the cemetery only represents about a third of Americans lost.
Enjoyed lunch with Bruce and a couple from Long Island. We all had burgers and coke. Very American.
After a five hour trek to Lille we checked in and sat down for a lasagna dinner. This hotel had full size beds but they weren’t very comfortable. The room heated up and beds were kind of bouncy. The showers the last couple nights were elevated so hard for poppy and i to get in and out of. He was happy I brought a bar of soap though. He really wishes he could get an American cup of coffee. I told him I think in Netherlands there is a Dunkin Donuts near the hotel.
We stopped at met a lovely family who’s cornfield was a drop zone for easy company in market garden. The elderly gentleman was a young boy when easy company landed and the family was so excited to see easy company the little boy (now elderly man) pumped water for them until the pump ran dry. He collected all the items you see in the cornfields and made a museum. They had samples of what the gliders were made of. Very scary to think they got up in the air. He had one of the original parachutes from east company he found buried in the cornfield.
On the bus ride, Chris told a story about how the Dutch adopt gravesites of American soldiers and there is a waiting list to this day. It’s a tradition started as they didn’t want their mothers to worry that the graves would go unattended. Many relationships between American and Dutch families have formed as a result.
Stopped for lunch and a beer. Poppy wanted to rest so I brought him back a tuna sandwich.
In the “Old Church” in oosterbeek you will see bullet holes in the side of the building.